A Walkthrough the Oldest Chinatown in the World
After crossing Jones Bridge, you’re immediately welcomed by Binondo church, a historical structure that symbolizes Filipino-Chinese history. Around the church, you can find Ongpin, Quintin Paredes, Juan Luna St., and other familiar streets Filipinos have most likely heard of.
As you stroll through these historical streets, you will know that you’ve visited the oldest Chinatown in the world – a slice of China in the heart of Metro Manila. You can smell the prayer incense sticks beside Lorenzo Ruiz chapel, hear locals speaking in Hokkien or Mandarin, and salivate the Chinese cuisine from well-known restaurants.
This vibrant city has a chaotic atmosphere, with noises from vendors haggling with buyers, the familiar rumbling sound of jeepneys, and the excitement of first-time tourists. But beyond the frenzy lies something deeper—the history of Binondo City, evidenced by its historical landmarks.
Walking Deeper to Discover Binondo’s History
Let’s walk deeper into the city. You can now find Binondo’s historical landmarks: Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz, Escolta, El Hogar Filipino Building, Chinatown Arch, and The Roman Ongpin Monument.
These landmarks testify that Binondo is a passage between the past and the present. Once you set foot in the city, you’ll discover not only its cuisine but also what lies behind the city’s wall, where you can glimpse a window of the past tracing back to the early Chinese merchants before the Spanish era.
Chinese Traders in the Archipelago
Before the Spaniards, Chinese traders were active in merchant activities across different islands in the Philippines, from Mindoro to Tondo, the center port of trading for the whole archipelago.
Since Tondo is the heart of Chinese economic activity, Legazpi, a Spanish conquistador, moved the capital city to Manila from Cebu. This attracted Chinese merchants to settle in the islands and decided to build a new life on the banks near Pasig.
Most of the Chinese who settled were from Fujian or Guangdong. They defied the will of the Ming Emperor, who forbade people from leaving China. Their determination to go against the emperor led to the legacy of Hookien culture thriving in the oldest Chinatown in the world—Binondo.
Parian – Early Settlement for Sangleys
The Chinese immigrants grew consistently throughout the year, making the Spanish government wary of their actions. The impending danger of Chinese invasion distressed the colonial government, which could topple their power over the islands.
In one incident, Limahong, a Chinese pirate who attacked Manila in 1574 with the ambition to establish a kingdom, alarmed the Spanish officials and established a rule that the Chinese or Sangleys were not allowed to live inside Intramuros.
@mightymagulang Chinese pirate Limahong invaded the Philippines in 1574. #kasaysayan #genealogy
To hamper the morals of Chinese immigrants, the Spanish government forced our ancestors to settle in a ghetto area, Parian also known in today’s time as Plaza Lawton and the Arroceros Forest Park. They lived within the range of cannons that signified the rampant abuse of the Spanish government.
Sangleys were also considered the “lowest of the low” in colonial society and endured unfair treatment by extorting them with unreasonable taxes. Due to mistreatment, 230 Chinese sangleys killed Governor-General Gómez Pérez during an expedition in a sea mutiny as a sign of revenge and revolution against exploitation.
This violent event motivated Governor-General Luis Perez Dasmariñas, son of Gómez, to segregate the Sangley community to Binondo in 1594. This also allows the colonial government to control the Chinese community and force them to convert to Catholicism.
Establishing Binondo in 1594
Consequently, the Spanish government only allowed Sangleys, who willingly converted to Catholicism, to settle in Binondo. In contrast, the others who stayed true to their heritage were forced to remain in Parian.
Inside Binondo, the Sangley community thrived and established the Binondo Church, which signified Sangleys’ acceptance of their new identity. The Sangleys slowly adapted to the new society, giving birth to Filipino-Chinese culture.
Throughout their settlement in Binondo, the Sangleys survived the colonial era by showing their contribution to the country’s economy, which the Spanish government saw as no threat. However, the events in 1603 shattered the peaceful negotiations between the Spanish and the sangleys because of a bloody rebellion.
Sangley Rebellion in 1603
Political unrest started when three Chinese magistrates came to the Philippines to investigate the mountains of gold in Cavite. Though invasion was not their purpose, the Spanish government didn’t take any chances and decided to take harsh action against the Chinese community.
The Spaniards suspected a possible rebellion, so Governor-General Pedro de Acuña decided to bring armor and weapons to Parian. This created tension among the Chinese and the Spaniards.
On October 3, the tension came to a bloody end. The Spanish government arrested Juan Bautista de Vera, the governor of the Chinese quarters, on suspicion of plotting a rebellion. Chinese rebels, fearing they had been found out, decided to take early action that would lead to their demise.
The rebels attacked from Tondo to Binondo Church. They fortified themselves in Parian and other areas until the Spanish forces counterattacked them, leading to a massacre. This event didn’t discourage Sangleys as they continued to fight for their independence until the Philippine Revolution.
ALSO READ: How Chinoys fought side by side with Filipinos for Philippine Independence
Binondo During the Philippine Revolution
The Chinese and Filipinos fought against foreign forces to achieve independence in the Philippine Revolution. Chinoys in Binondo played a crucial role in the war in 1898. One notable hero was a Chinese merchant named Francisco “Chino” Osorio—one of the 13 martyrs of Cavite. Osorio was accused of hiding weapons and ammunition in his home.
He also hid weapons in cemeteries and back rooms of Chinese shops in Binondo. Bolos were also found being made, and insurgent uniforms were manufactured. Another notable hero is Gen. Jose Ignacio Paua, a Chinese immigrant living in Binondo who proved his Filipino identity by fighting for our independence.
Binondo indeed played a pivotal role in helping our heroes fight colonialism. It is a home of Filipino Chinese heroes who witnessed how we persevered through difficult times.
READ MORE: How Gen. Jose Ignacio Paua Shaped His Filipino Identity During the Philippine Revolution
Post-War: A Thriving Binondo
After the colonial era, the Filipino-Chinese community thrived further through intermarriage with the locals and the establishment of business ventures in Binondo. This gave birth to modern Chinoys who have contributed to Philippine society.
The Chinoy community proved its place by producing brilliant minds in different fields, including politics, sports, entertainment, and even literature. Now, Binondo still plays a role as one of the centers of commercial activity in Metro Manila, showing that the city is still economically important for the country.
And the Chinoys who live in Binondo will continue to play a part in our country’s progress.
Binondo: The Root of Chinoy History
Binondo is the root of Filipino-Chinese history in the Philippines. The city saw how our people contributed to our independence and nation-building. Its walls and streets are a testament to our people’s survival through war, colonialism, and political unrest.
Despite this, our community still survives, much like Binondo Church, which continues to ring its bell at the heart of the city. The church symbolizes how Binondo will still be there to cradle the new generation of Chinoys.
After visiting Binondo, you have witnessed our rich history and a place where we can hope to remember our past, which can inspire us to build a better future.
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Reference:
- https://www.esquiremag.ph/long-reads/features/binondo-history-oldest-chinatown-a2212-20190204-lfrm?s=vfcf10rb172k4m8k09npqknhbg
- https://www.tatlerasia.com/lifestyle/travel/cultural-wanderers-guide-to-binondo-manila
- https://opinion.inquirer.net/166822/chinese-revolt-1603\
- https://www.philstar.com/opinion/2005/10/03/299854/today-past